For whatever reason, I’m really currently fascinated by two German styles that are often overlooked: Kolsch and Altbier. We’ll save the former for another post, but seeing Uerige, a classic example of the Altbier style the other day down at The Village Beer Merchant, (and it comes in a way cool swing-top no less,) I had to indulge. This brewery was founded in the mid-1800’s by a guy who went by ‘uerige’ Willem, or grumpy Bill. If that’s not enough, here’s the short version, it’s simple: You really ought to try this beer.

A bit of background, first. Alt means ‘old’ in German, and what is meant by old here is an older style of brewing. But really, it might better be said to be an older style of fermenting because Altbier is an ale, and ale-brewing in Germany was quite eclipsed by lager brewing once lager yeasts were identified and put to intentional use. Despite this, by BJCP standards Altbier falls into the Dark Hybrid category, because the ale is fermented at quite low temperatures for an ale yeast, in the lower 60’s. This cooler fermentation–and subsequent lagering at temps in the high 30’s–severely limits the production of fun, yeasty byproducts like esters (fruity flavors) and phenols (spicy flavors) which are often present in ales. Instead, the malt flavors can come to the fore, driven by German pilsner malt, aided by additions of Munich, crystal, and possibly even some small amounts of darker chocolate or black patent, mainly for color. Hopping rates are moderate, enough to provide a definite hop bitterness to counterpoint the malt, but not to overwhelm; Spalter is a frequent choice. This is a classic session beer style, since a.b.v. is in the 4.5%-5.5% range, depending on the specific substyle: the BJCP guide outlines both 7A, Northern German Alt (the typically weaker), and 7C, Düsseldorf Alt. In point of fact, however, today’s example is technically neither.

True enough, Uerige is from Düsseldorf, but you might see on this bottle some small gold lettering- it reads sticke. What the BJCP guidelines say of this is that is that it designates a somewhat stronger (and darker) version of the style. The brewery’s own website makes it clear that this is an export-only version, for the US market. In Germany, their twice-a-year-only sticke is brewed to 6.5%, but this export version comes in at only(!) 6%. Perhaps to make up for this, they also offer (again, export only) a doublesticke, which boasts an a.b.v of 8.5%. The lore behind the sticke is kind of cute, I guess: the word is an old-German one, and means ‘whisper,’ derived from another word meaning ’secret.’ Back in the day, the brewer would occasionally dump in, oh, a bit more more malt (and then of course more hops as well), and when this beer was finally ready and tapped, well.. word got passed around, it seems.

pssst, Fritz- go to brewery Uerige; ask for beer from the third tap from the left!!!

Nowadays as one might expect, the twice-a-year occasion is well publicized and has in fact jumped to the top of my “beer-travel” list. So, the skinny:

Aroma: (10/12) A sweet malt aroma predominates, with some caramel. Light banana (esters); faint floral but dusty hop aroma. Some faint DMS (pilsner malt?), but no diacetyl.
Appearance: (3/3) Medium-copper, slight red; very clear. Thick, foamy head lasts a minute, two; leaves some protein near rim but otherwise no lacing & remains a tracing around the edge.
Flavor: (17/20) Malt sweetness hits strong, the DMS from the nose is present here two but there is also toast flavor and long-boil caramelization. Hop bitterness comes through at the end of the sip but does not linger overlong, ok for style. Certainly not dry, only a hint of alcohol.
Mouthfeel: (4/5) Medium body, medium carbonation with small bubbles; near creamy texture. Faint alcohol heat, no asringency.
Overall Impression: (9/10) This is a very refreshing and easy drinking beer which nonetheless maintains a fair amount of malt character. The overall impression is not at all unlike a good amber (Vienna/Munich) lager, though the minimal esters give it away.
Total: (43/50)
[This total puts it slightly below “world class example”, but I am technically judging it to the wrong category, as I explained, so that seems right]

Of course, in truth there’s no way my scoring here isn’t slightly wack. As in biased. In the points more than in tasting, I like to hope. But yeah, it’s not as though I’m blind judging it, which is truly critical. Nonetheless, I can certainly say with all honesty that this is worth having at least one of in your life, if not outright traveling to Germany for!