
In the heart of the West Side’s liveliest commercial district, the Grant/Ferry area, you will find one of Buffalo’s quality beer sellers- Frontier Discount Liquor & Beverage. No doubt you are familiar with their signature white horse which has for so long stood vigil before the entrance, but perhaps you assumed that the inside held no secrets. Well, I don’t know about and so won’t speak to their selection of wine and liquor (as per NYS’s archaic laws, the wine & liquor store is technically separate from the beer & soda), but I can assure my readers that so far as buying craft beers in the city goes, they do an excellent job.
I stopped in and chatted with owner Bill Mackiewicz today, and he talked to me a bit about their future strategy for stocking quality beers. He told me that in the coming weeks, they were planning on focussing their selection, particularly with respect to NYS craft beers. Bill stressed that he felt his clientele, and city-dwellers more broadly, needed to have a wider choice when it came to the ultimate adult beverage. Even better, Bill seemed to know one of the really important points regarding stocking beers, and that is freshness. Beer is perishable, and it doesn’t tolerate a lot of light (that’s how beers get skunked) or too many cycles of temperature change– and high temps in particular will oxidize a beer rather quickly. So, when it comes to managing stock, the key is stocking only what you can sell quickly. It’s no good having 100’s and 100’s of beers if they’re not moving. Bill’s aim, consequently, is to keep the orders small, and to keep careful track of which brands are selling and how fast. A sound strategy in a market where the customers tastes are becoming ever more discerning.
[ASIDE: There is a store in Rochester (I will not name them, but a little research will get you there) that is sometimes known as The Beer Museum because although the selection is vast, they just aren’t moving what they have before it goes bad. A word of advice- if you go to a beer store and there is dust on the bottles, move on along.]
Back to Frontier- what do that have? Admittedly, you’re not going to find the rarest and most expensive of beers here, but nonetheless, they go well beyond the basic Bud/Miller/Coors/Labatts (Tier I) selection you’ll find anywhere. Frontier is a good place to go if you’re looking for what I consider the Tier II selections. For domestic beers, that means of course your Sam Adams, but also plenty of regionals like: Flying Bison; Southern Tier; Ithaca; Ellicottville; High Falls (Genny, yes, but also J.W. Dundees and Steinlager); Saranac and Middle Ages from Syracuse. From slightly further afield, they stock Vermont’s Magic Hat & Long Trail, Great Lakes from Cleveland and the ol’ grandad of the micro scene, Sierra Nevada. I also noticed they had selections from Victory in Pennsylvania and Harpoon (Boston’s other craft brewery. As for imports, it was laudable to find beers from Sam Smiths (England) and Duval (from Belgium) and nestled among the cervezas and inevitable Heineken, St. Pauli and Becks.
Overall, I was really impressed and happy to stop & shop at Frontier. Indeed, I’m still going to have to hit Consumer and Premier for some things, of course. But if I’m just looking for a quality micro, and especially a NYS beer, I really don’t need to roll any further than Grant & Ferry for it. Moreover, the prices are good. If you live in the city, especially the west side, I urge you to check Frontier out!






10 users commented in " Who Are Your Urban Purveyors of Beer? Part II "
Follow-up comment rss or Leave a TrackbackHarpoon is Boston’s craft brewery….. the “other” one just has offices in Boston and a tour facility. Their brewery is in Cincinnati, OH.
Andy…
Well… on one hand, there are those that argue that Sam Adams isn’t even a craft brewery anymore, and at minimum not a micro-brewery. It is true that the brewery in Boston is mainly for R&D. In the past, they’ve been contract brewed by F.X. Matt in Utica (you know them for Saranac, but they also brewed, or brew, Brooklyn’s beers) and quite so, Sam Adams has a brewery in Ohio- and one in Oregon, too.
That said, Harpoon has a brewery in Windsor, VT, so, I wouldn’t be so quick to denigrate Sam Adams for brewing outside of Boston.
Indeed, if you like your beer fresh (I do,) having multiple brewing sites must be considered a virtue to some extent.
I remember hearing at the Magic Hat brewery in Burlington some mention of how past a certain point they had to stop calling themselves a microbrewery and moved into the realm of “regional” due to something about how many states they distributed to.
Is there some set of rules about all this? Once I saw Sam as the “exotic” beer on Amtrak it ceased to exist on any kind of small level in my mind.
Good question. There aren’t really any rules, no, but there is sometimes at least a general consensus. The problem is that micro/craft/regional/macro is as much about production volume and distribution as it is about quality and corporate philosophy.
The best I can offer is this wikipedia entry on the subject, which seems definitive enough for me.
Though Sam Adams is huge, they can still be distinguished from the Anheusers of the world by their commitment to all-malt (i.e. no corn or rice) brewing. And, fwiw, many’s the time Sam Adams is the best choice in the bar, or in personal experience, the hockey arena. When-oh-when will Flying Bison get into HSBC, I wonder, or Dunn Tire park? I believe their production capacity is enough to handle those contracts- and even if not, securing those contracts ought to be enough for them to raise the capital to increase capacity to meet the demand, I’d think.
Ethan,
Thanks for bring me up-to-date on Frontier. Glad that it’s not a beer museum. I’d love to see your top list of places to shop for beer in/around Buffalo and your new tier description for each. I’m always interested to find new places.
Here’s another breakdown on craftbrewer vs. microbrewer vs. brewpub http://www.brewersadvocate.org/education/craft_defined.html
BR
Thanks, Rox… gripped any of that ol’ Anchor Summer Wheat yet? I’m thinking about getting a growler tonight at Consumers on Elmwood.
I will do a post on down the road on my personal take on the “tiers of beers”
Thanks for the link, good reading.
No Anchor Summer Wheat yet. I will have to pick up a 6 this summer. Any city options to find it?
Crossed the border on Friday and, due to nostalgia, picked up a case of Molson Stock Ale. Unfortunately, my memory of the ale and its current incarnation are wide apart. I’m also trying to find a beer that replicates the Canadian (blondes?) of yore. Once upon a time Catamount made one. They were very thirst quenching in the summer.
I don’t recall seeing the ASW anywhere in Buffalo proper, your best bet might be Wegmans/Amherst St. I know I’ve seen Anchor Steam there.
I’ve heard before that the Molson Stock Ale ain’t what it used to be, but well… I’m only 35. Likely as not, one of the Canadian micros (woefully unavailable on this side of the border, other than Unibroue) offers something akin to it, but I can’t really comment on that.
I can say, though, that Catamount made exceptionally good beer, while they did. Victims of growing too fast, too early, but damn! What a brewery! They were instrumental in Beer-O-Vision’s beery education. Harpoon uses their old facility now.
I’m only several years older than you so I don’t want to make it sound as if I’m going way back in time. My recollection is based on stealing drinks of my grandfather’s beer as a kid. It seems that all the Canadian beers were different than they are now, I’d guess that the hops have been toned down as well as the introduction of adjuncts. I haven’t had much luck in finding a Canadian micro that holds its own against US or European beers. I’ve tried Sleeman, Upper Canada and Steamwhistle but none of them is remarkable enough to pay insane Canadian GST.
Yeah, Canadian beer is pretty spendy alright.
Sadly, I don’t know Canadian micros nearly as well as I ought to. Sleeman, Upper Canada and Steamwhistle, I have had some of each, though I haven’t had Upper Canada in years. I never go to the TO without stopping at C’est What?, but their selection is mighty- I’ve hardly had all of their own beers, let alone the vast number of other micros they stock. Churchkey brewing is one that stands out in my mind, and last time we were there, Mrs. BOV had a great beer called Hop Addict, but I cannot recall the brewery on that one; The Police sort of wasted my memory somehow. Another great spot in Toronto is the Bier Markt on the Esplanade, but they stock mainly European brands.
I guess Beer-O-Vision will just have to make a wee trip to gather data for you. Rough, I know. Maybe soon. There’s a Beer Store and an LCBO in Ft Erie, so…
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